Purolator Oil Filter Review
Whether you drive a big SUV, a TDI Jetta, or a Smart car, they all need maintenance. There are tons of choices you can make when buying oil filters and other maintenance parts for your car. Today we are talking about Purolator oil filters. The folks at Purolator were nice enough to send me a few oil filters to review for you all. I have been a fan of their products for years, so it was my pleasure to do this review.
A Little Purolator History
Purolator actually invented the first oil filter right here in the USA. The original Purolator was an upright series of seven twill weave cloth covered perforated plates encased in a heavy-duty cast container. The product featured a sight feed glass on one side so that the oil flow could be viewed and the filter changed when the flow diminished to a trickle. How cool would it be to see the oil flow thought your cars filter. You can check out more of their cool history here.
The Filters
Purolator has 3 choices when it comes to oil filters. The PureOne, the Synthetic filter, and the Purolator Classic.
The PureOne Oil Filter
This is the filter that I have always used. Going cheap on one of the most vital parts of your car is never a good choice. This filter features:
- 99.9% efficiency means better protection for your engine.
- Exclusive Micronic filter media traps even microscopic contaminants
- Silicone anti-drainback valve offers superior protection against dry-start.
- 100% grip control for easy installation and removal. This is the texture I talk about in the video below
The Synthetic Filter
Another top quality filter for engines that use synthetic oil.
- The Ideal filter for full synthetic oil change – provides up to 10,000 miles of protection.
- 100% Synthetic filter media provides for ultimate engine protection.
- Full 100% synthetic filter media for ultimate engine protection
- Wire backed media for maximum durability
- No-slip textured grip for easy install and removal
The Purolator Classic
This filter is perfect for the conventional oil and filter chance.
- It provides preimuim protection for everyday driving
- Provides 97.5%efficency rating for excellent engine protection
The Pros
Like I mention in the video, I have been using Purolator filters for many many years. Comparing the PureOne filter to the factory Nissan filter was apples to apples. They were basically the same. I really do like the fact that the PureOne is textured. As critical of products that I am willing to recommend, I have no problem recommending this oil filter.
The Cons
Even on a product that is fantastic, there is always room for improvement. If you drive a car that requires synthetic oil, stick with the PureOne or the Synthetic filter.
Here is the How-To Video I shot for you guys. Again, this is my wife’s 2008 Nissan Frontier V6. She is nice enough to let me drive it when it needs service.
As you can see, changing oil yourself can be easy. If you are not someone who wants to DIY, that’s cool too. There are pros like me that are happy to do it for you.
Here are the tips I mention in the video
- Take your time, there is no need to rush this
- Do not use power tools on the drain plug or oil filter
- Tighten the drain plug properly
- Be sure not to double gasket the oil filter.
- Clean up any residual oil
- Check and top off all the other vehicle fluids
- Check the tires and tire pressure
- Document the service. Good record keeping is important
- Check and double check the oil level. Be sure the car is on a level surface
If you have any other DIY oil change tips, please share them in the comments below. Hopefully the next time you change your oil, you will pick up a Purolator filter. If you do, please let me know. I would love to hear your thoughts too.
Disclosure
I was paid by Purolator to review for this post with Burst Media, all thoughts and opinions are my own. All products were provided by Purolator; however are items I genuinely enjoy and feel are appropriate for my site.
Not only is she nice enough to let you drive it, but change the oil for her as well.
Good video, nice quality and instructive.
I like the drip tray under the oil filter, I have seen a few vehicles that could have used that.
Hey Pat,
I am a lucky dude LOL seriously she is awesome.
I wish that more cars had that little tray. It would make oil clean up much faster.
My wife lets me drive the van to get the oil changed. Got a package deal at the dealership for cheaper than I could do it myself.
The tray is so much better than the ones that drip on the cross member or radiator support, then drop oil all over the ground.
On comparing filtration efficiency 99% means absolutely nothing unless you know the micron rating as well. What if it’s 99% of rocks the size of your thumb. That wouldn’t do much for protection.
Next time you go to the store check out all the funky wording that filter manufactures use. We stop 10 micron particle, we are 99% efficient etc. Unless you have Percentage + Micron rating you have no clue how well the filter performs.
The second part of the equation is capacity. This is how much dirt/contaminants that the filter can hold before it goes into by-pass mode. This will be determined by the size of the filter, the type of media and how many pleats are inside.
Lastly is construction. Durable construction is critical when you want to protect your investment. Heavy duty construction is a must, you will want to compare how the filters are constructed and with what materials.
Hope this helps.
@Michael
This is awesome info man, thank you for that.
Have you ever had an oil filter that failed? I definitely think anti drain back is a must, especially in bigger motors where it may take a few moments to get oil pressure up.
@Stephen,
The only failure of oil filters I have seen is due to improper installation, or using a filter well beyond the service life.
Sadly, I have seen a lot of improper installations 🙁
Anti drain back valves are effective only for filters that mount with the base plate down. If the filter is mounted to the side or with the base plate up, the oil in the filter won’t drain up.
oil filter is so important for car health, this looks decent, efficient. good video on changing.
I like to keep the engine abut a quarter way up the temp scale (100?) When I change my oil so it flows out faster . That’s my only tip….
I usually do not comment, but after looking at a few of the comments here Purolator Oil Filter Review | Humble Mechanic.
I actually do have a couple of questions for you if it’s allright.
Could it be only me or do a few of these remarks
look like they are written by brain dead visitors? 😛 And, if you are writing on other places,
I would like to keep up with you. Could you make a list of all of all
your social networking pages like your Facebook page, twitter feed, or linkedin profile?
My two cents…. If you’re gonna clean out the drain plug threads, I pack the tap with bearing grease. This is in hopes of capturing any metal you might break loose. You don’t want that to drop into the pan. Second, I always thoroughly wipe down the machined mating surface and the pipe threads regardless. You never know if some grit impregnated clump of oil or grease from the under carriage has dropped in there. And finally, if you’re like me and are looking for that, “3/4 turn” after the gasket on the filter makes contact, I place a small piece of masking tape on the end of the filter. Once contact is made, I can then use the tape as a reference point like a clock and make that “3/4” turn. Tape comes right off. I know that’s second nature for you Charles, but for me, I only do mine and the wife’s car so I play it safe. I had one filter, (put on by a shop) that was installed way too tight. I don’t want to live that hassle again!
I guess that was three cents! :). Anyhow, great video and thanks. I follow ETCG and saw your photo’s in his news letter. Looking for Purolator reviews and saw your link there. Adding you to the pantheon of “How Too” guys to follow.
Regards
Hey James
That’s awesome and very thorough advice!
Putting on filters too tight is very common. I am sure I do it to a certain extent. Mostly for the fact I have to check them 3 times to be sure I tightened it. Lol
Thanks for the add and if I can ever help ya out let me know.
I feel like a lucky dude to get to hang out with ETCG!
There is an important difference between a thread cutting and a thread cleaning tap, as their names indicate.
A thread cutting tap has sharp threads that are intended to remove metal. They turn a round smooth-bored hole into a threaded hole.
A thread cleaning tap does not have sharp edges as they are designed to only scrape dirt and burrs away.
Be especially careful with cast aluminum oil pans. If one does not have a threaded steel insert or captive nut, even a soft steel drain plug screw that has a burr or damaged thread will cut soft (even hard aluminum alloys like 7075 are soft as compared to steel) aluminum threads.
If a drain plug screw, once loosened, is difficult to remove with your fingers, requiring a wrench, it may have been cross-threaded by the high school kid at the Quickie Oil Change place. This can be bad. If the drain hole threads are stripped, on some vehicles the engine must be removed to replace the oil pan. I had this experience with a Honda 3.5 in an Odyssey. The drain hole threads had been stripped, an oversized plug screwed in, the oversize threads stripped, and a double oversized drain plug screwed in – crookedly – and stripped. A rubber bulb expanding plug was in it. As the engine had to be replaced, a good undamaged oil pan was put on the replacement.
I have been doing synthetic oil changes for years using the PureOne filter and changing it a 10000 mile intervals.The synthetic filter may be better but is it really needed, the cost is $3 more.
Thanks for the comment. I don’t think the synthetic filter is THAT much better. But $3 over 10k miles is nothing.
Most people probably drop more than that in charge.
When I buy filters I almost always buy factory filters. Mostly out of convenience. But I would hesitate to pay a few bucks more for a top level filter.
The lowest priced filter, Walmart’s SuperTech, is warranted 99% efficient for particles 30μ and greater. A look at the most expensive filters, the Mobil1 and the K&N, have the same warranty.
Industrial filters that filter down to 1μ are available but if such were installed on an internal combustion engine the filter would clog in a very short time, going to bypass. 30μ has been the “standard” for many years. As the filter loads up, finer and finer particles build up, eventually clogging and then bypassing.
I use valvoline synthetic blend oil in my 05 GMC Sierra, I’m just getting to the 100,000 mile mark when if at all do you recommend using full synthetic and which brand?
“Synthetic blend” doesn’t mean anything unless you know what percentage of synthetic is in the oil.
I always prime my oil filters before installing. Saves the engine from a dry start.
Engines aren’t “dry.” Bearings have the same oil that they had when they were shut off.
Oil pressure is to create flow for cooling the bearings, not to separate the journals from the inserts. That separation is due to the film strength.
After having a dealership do the oil changes for the 1st 70K miles , I have decided to do them myself. I have scoured the internet, and have pick the Purolator Pure One to be my choice of filer. will follow up as soon as possible as I put 2500 miles per month. Good info here.
I ordered the Purolator PureOne filter from Amazon after reading your review. One reason was the textured surface which would make it easier for me to hand tighten (using a wrench for the last 1/2 turn), since my oil filter is in a very tough spot to reach. After receiving the filter I was disappointed to see that, although it is pictured in textured yellow, it is now a very smooth metallic blue. Naturally the color doesn’t matter, but the texture would have been great. Any idea from your contacts at Purolator why the change?
This might not do anything….but one thing I do when I change my oil is:
– When I have the old filter and drain plug off and the engine oil drained, I add half a quart of new oil and let it drain through. I figure it is helping to flush out anything that may have been left behind.
Just wastes a pint of oil. Oil poured into the filler opening runs right down into the oil pan. There is nothing left behind that will wash out by doing this.
I am not happy that the new pure one is no longer textured and a fantsy metallic blue. Please let them know that there are ppl not happy with this.
I’m just curious how you feel about Purolator not disclosing its micron rating.
“Nothing Gets By Us
When it comes to protecting vehicles and drivers from dirt and debris, nothing gets by Purolator filters.”
This is false. With a 30μ rating anything less than 30μ goes right on through the filter. That’s what the micron rating means.
What are Purolator Tech Oil Filters and are they any good?
The dealer put on a TL 20195 series Purolator oil filter on a 2009 Ford Edge. This is equivalent to a Motocraft FL400S. TL must be the industrial commercial grade, comparable to the L series in quality. Ford changed the thread pitch on the recommended filters (FL400S and FL500S) mid 2019 on this model, leading to confusion on the proper fit. There is a 50/50 chance the wrong filter will be applied – these filters have different thread pitches. Oddly the insert in the 2019 owner’s manual calls for either part number, which doesn’t make sense given the difference in the filter’s thread pitches.
Engines aren’t “dry.” Bearings have the same oil that they had when they were shut off.
Oil pressure is to create flow for cooling the bearings, not to separate the journals from the inserts. That separation is due to the film strength.
The organization added that while the more modest size of these Group 7 by Purolator oil channels carries advantages to installers, the new channels likewise carry specific worth to WDs, agents and different merchants.
This is a very helpful place where we learn about daily use items like cars.
I love my car more than other things so careful tips are like donations for us and this blog is providing that tips.