Thank you for interest in guest posting here at

If you have spent any time on this site, you will find it very different from most other blogs. There are no Google Ads. There are no junk links. Everything you find here is top notch, original content. Please keep that in mind while reading the rest of this page.

I love making more connections and friends in the automotive industry. It helps build even more strength in the community, and can bring a fresh prospective. That is cool! So if you want to be part of the community, I would love to hear from you.

What Can I Write About?

I talk about cars, car repairs, tools, and the automotive industry. Any type of guest posting will need to be properly aligned in that market. Things like:

  • Buying and selling cars
  • DIY car maintenance
  • Modifiing cars
  • Mobile electronics
  • Vehicle preparedness
  • General hand and power tools
  • Advanced automotive tools including diagnostic equipment
  • Vehicle maintenance products
  • Shop equipment
  • Safety equipment
  • Home garage accessories
  • General car fan products. T-shirts, stickers, garage art

If you  don’t fit exactly in any of these categories, that is okay. Contact me with what you have, and we can chat about it.

Posting Guidelines

Here is where we get into the fine print. I am going to be very upfront. I do not take many guest posts. Why is that? Most guest folks that contact me about guest posting simply don’t get it. They are trying to use this community as a link farm. If this is you, please do not waste your time. Everything that is done here is for the community. Me accepting a guest post is to bring value to the community. I am not here to help your site rank better on Google. The experts say to write guest posts. But what they don’t say is, you need to provide value to the community.

I take this blog and the folks that spend time here extremely serious. I care more about the folks that take time out of their day to connect with me, than I do about anything else. If you simply want to do a guest post because the SEO experts say to, again don’t waste your time.

If you are still with me, great! I know that I come off really harsh about guest posting. Just understand that it is about the community. If you can bring true value to the community I would love your prospective. If you email me saying:

Hi, I write for a company in your industry. I would like to provide you a guest post for your readers. Thank you

I know you don’t care 1 bit about this community. You are most likely a media company that an automotive company hired. There is really nothing wrong with that. But I can tell you have not spent 1 minute reading this blog, or connecting with us in any way. Heck you couldn’t even say “Hey Charles”.

Alright, if you have made it this far, you must be serious about connecting with the community. So please email me Charles(at)Humblemechanic(dot)com. Don’t worry, if we do any type of cross promotion, I will give you all the credit and links.

35 replies
  1. Christian Bach
    Christian Bach says:


    I see your site don’t have education section.
    I like to write an article there.
    Topic could be about driving lessons and safe driving. I think that is the topic that is very important to young people who wants to have a car.

    Please let me know if you are interested in publishing my article.
    Looking forward to hearing from you.

    Kind Regards,
    Christian Bach

    • Ted A Tolentino
      Ted A Tolentino says:

      Hello Charles, I don’t know if this is the right place to post a question or if twitter, or regular email would be more appropriate. But let me start with a question. I have a 2002 Passat, 2,8l v6, automatic with about 180K miles on the odometer. Lately, I have experienced hard starting, usually engine starting after 3 or more clicks of the ignition key. And when the engine starts, it will run at a low RPM and then only slowly rev up before settling down to an idle of about 900 rpm. I suspected a fuel pressure problem, and after checking my electrical connections to the wire feed to the pump (fuse, relay, voltage, resistance) I have concluded it is a failed pump. In addition, when placing current to the contacts of the pump (Power probe) I hear no sound to indicate that the pump is working. but before I crack open the ring retainer to remove the pump, is there anything else I should check to be sure it is the pump. I would hate to spend hundreds of dollars on a new pump, only to find the problem was not resolved. Thank you millions, Charles.

  2. rodney
    rodney says:

    I have a laptop with alldata on it and it works. 500 for the laptop.
    or 150 for just the alldata. or I can send you the information you need when you start working on the car.

  3. SteveK
    SteveK says:

    2006 Jetta with 2.5l engine. 115,000 miles. Newer serpentine belt. Started making an intermittent chatter from engine compartment yesterday. Looked under the hood to locate the sound. Appears to come from the area around the alternator. Chatter is in sync with the serpentine belt. The pulley just below the alternator appears to have slight lateral movement that corresponds with the noise. I made appointment with dealer garage to have this repaired tomorrow, but I wanted to run this by you to see if this could be a DIY project. Are special tools needed for this type of repair? Thanks.

    • Charles
      Charles says:

      Hi Steve,
      Some of those rollers are Diy. I think that one you are talking about requires you to take the engine mount out. Off the top of my head, I am not 100% sure. 🙂

      Those rollers failing are semi-common to fail.

  4. DREW
    DREW says:

    I read your insert in MSN’s 5 ways to avoid overpaying for repairs, and ways shops cheat you. I have worked in Chevrolet dealerships for 7 years now, and in my experience what was said about the tires not needing to be rotated at 5,000 miles was totally incorrect, and misleading to say the least. depending on some peoples driving and braking habits and wheather the veh. is front wheel drive or not, they should be rotated a minimum of every 7,500 miles to extend tire life and by 30,000 miles they should have also been balanced at least once and aligned at about 25-30k.

    • Charles
      Charles says:

      Drew, I was misquoted in that article.

      The point of what I was saying was to follow the owners manual. I’ll put a post out about it later today. Thanks for the note.

      I have no intention of misleading people.

  5. james_lopez
    james_lopez says:


    I am truly impressed with your blog content, your posts are truly high-quality and you are keeping it fine. I would like to issue my post on your blog (as guest post) with my website link.. Please let me know if you are recognizing guest posts and I’m prepared to talk about my content, I promise you with unique, excellence and 100% plagiarism free content. I am looking forward to get your reply.

    Thank You

  6. Preston
    Preston says:

    If you have a car that sounds like it’s going to start but dos not. Is it the distributor but i’m only 12 so i am to sure see i am going to start my own mechanic shop when i move out i know most of the stuff i need to know but … i am stuck on a few things like this i thought it could be the ignition or the distributor ….. got any tips.

    • Charles
      Charles says:

      There are several things that can cause a car to sound like it will start, but not start.

      You need to be sure you have spark, fuel, and compression.

      It may be a distributor issue. You can take the distributor off and look for cracks or buildup.

      You also want to be sure the car is getting fuel to the engine.

  7. Big Mo
    Big Mo says:

    I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar with a broken hood release latch. It appears to broken on the release side under the hood. The hood wont release at all. Please help

  8. JJ
    JJ says:

    I watched your video on the Rear Main Seal failure. I am being told by my VW dealer that the seal has failed but my 2018 Jetta only has 28K miles on it. It started to leak the day after they performed an oil change which could just be coincidence but it seems suspicious. Have you seen them fail prematurely on newer cars? Could the dealer be misleading me? It is a major repair like you point out in your video.

  9. Michael Johnson
    Michael Johnson says:

    I have a 2010 Passat Wagon with the 2.0T. I replaced the rear main seal. Put in a new transmission last year and now I have ANOTHER issue. I am getting an Oil Pressure Turn OFF ENGINE warning after about 5mins of driving. I have a permanent P0299 code. So I’m thinking it’s the turbo needs to be replaced. Mechanic told me that because the Oil Pressure light comes on and blinks while accelerating, it’s the oil pump and i need a new engine at $5,000. Volkswagen told me it was the turbo sucking in too much oil and I would need to replace it at $3,000. I had to drive on the highway recently and the car was floating pretty above 60 mph. 70, 80 and even at one point 90, No lights, no nothing. But as soon as I go under 60, BEEP BEEP BEEP Oil Pressure light. I don’t want to buy a turbo and it doesn’t work or throw away my engine when I could just replace the oil pump (and I’ve seen some vids where it was done). Do you have any ideas or expertise in such a matter?

    • Charles
      Charles says:

      Impossible to say with out looking at the car. but odds are neither are correct. Typically if the oil light is on, and level is good, its debris from the balance shafts that cause it. Or you have a screen in the spool valve blocking oil. Either way, it’s not cheap, and could result in a very sad engine

      • Michael Johnson
        Michael Johnson says:

        Thank you for your response. I changed the spool valve (VVT solenoid) in that car 2 years ago, along with the cam shaft bracket (which had the screen broken and lodged in it). So I never gave it a second thought. However, I did not use OEM for either part to save money. SO, while I REALLY hated this job because some of the bolts were hard to remove, I am willing to go back in and (now that I have the money) install OEM parts and hope that works. Hopefully it’s that and not the balancing shaft. Please don’t let it be that!!!! There is some oil leaking from the turbo, and I still have that P0299 from time to time, but one thing at a time. Thanks for your insight.

  10. Jason P
    Jason P says:

    Hey Charles!,
    I love the content and you’ve given me a lot of helpful tips. I have a VW cc 2012 my first mod is a sigma 6 I loved the video on it! But I need some tips on tunes for my cc which is a gen 1or2 e888? I’ve checked integrated engineerings tune and unitronics but if I wanna do a future stage 2 Will their downpipes fit my car? I’m currently looking on websites to find the fitments but they don’t list them. But I found out some GTI’S have the same gen 1or2 tsi which are listed on the website for integrated but I wanted your insight on the matter! I dont wanna waste your time but I would appreciate it a lot. Have a blessed day.

  11. Paul
    Paul says:

    Hi Charles. I’ve been following you since I bought 2013 Passat TDI a few years ago. Now I got myself a 2020 Passat SEL with 2.0 TSI engine (of course the only option we have unfortunately). I cannot find a lot more info about this engine at all. I looked at the side of the engine and saw DDS on it. Is it the DDSA or DDSB with Budack cycle like in Tiguan? Is it a DI only or PDI like the one sold in EU? Is the turbo setup twin scroll turbo or a normal turbo since I saw 2 separate ports at the exhaust manifold? I really like it so far. I feel like this engine is punchy and have enough power for me for daily driving experience. I miss DSG in a Passat tho. Thank you in advance!!!

  12. peter scott
    peter scott says:

    Good day very nice blog!! Guy .. Excellent .. Wonderful ..
    I’ll bookmark your blog and take the feeds
    also? I’m glad to find numerous helpful info here in the submit, we’d like work out
    more strategies in this regard, thanks for sharing. . .

  13. Bhagwanji Rambhai Madhu
    Bhagwanji Rambhai Madhu says:

    Hi, just watched your utube video on audi fuel injector refit.
    The tool that you used to fit white seal on can you please send the details from where you bought it from as I can’t find any in UK England.
    Thank you.

  14. Jason Mansfield
    Jason Mansfield says:

    I recently started up the car yesterday and had a host of new lights and warnings, such as EPC/Airbag/TPMS/ and a continuously beeping Parking Brake alarm. These all occurred at the same time, which is highly suspect. No drivability issues noted, car ran and drove normal.

    I scanned the car with my Autel MX808 and found the following codes:

    02511 – Passenger occupant detection system control module – No signal/communication
    01578 – Airbag off – indicator lamp, front passenger side – faulty
    -XXXX – Tire Pressure Monitoring Control Module – No Communication

    Other issues:
    — The parking brake warning light will not turn off on dashboard. This means the warning alarm whenever the car is driven above 4 MPH and lasts for about 10 minutes.
    –The ambient temperature display next to the clock near the roof handle does not display.

    I have pulled the parking brake switch and tested – seems OK. I tested the voltage from the connector that feeds the parking brake switch and only measured 2.4 volts. I also measured the voltage at the AC Pressure switch and only found 2.4 Volts feeding the switch. I know this particular switch has read 12 V in the recent past.

    Battery voltage after sitting overnight was at 12.44 Volts.

    Any insight would be helpful. Thanks!


  15. Jarred Sitjar
    Jarred Sitjar says:

    So I have a 2015 GTI and recently I had a little incident where the axle backing plates rubbed a hole onto my trans. So I ordered a used 6-speed dsg trans with the same trans code on it, PUL. Now that everything is in, everything connected and filled with trans fluid, the car doesn’t move at all when put into R or D. I’m I missing something? Do I have to program the TCU? Do I have to do something unique to tell the TCU to connect with the new trans? Any clues/help would be appreciated!

  16. Michael
    Michael says:

    I have been looking up and down on the internet/youtube to find out any information on checking fuses specifically in regards to VW products to no avail… I was wondering if you could do a video discussing the fuse location, fuse size, fuse types etc…?

    Thank you for all the help.

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    modular switches says:

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  18. Zach
    Zach says:

    Hi Charles!

    I’ve been following you for quite some time and have finally decided to rebuild the VR6 in my Corrado after watching some of your White Wookie videos. I’ve seen you featured in quite a few VR6 teardowns and was wondering if you’ve ever used a torque plate while honing a block? I’m having a very difficult time finding someone with a torque plate for a VR6 and figured that if anyone knows about them, it would be you.

    If you haven’t, it would be really cool to see a comparison between two engines that were built in the same way and machined at the same shop with the only difference being the usage of a torque plate during the honing process. Even some basic measurements of the bores with/without a plate to check distortion would be super cool.



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