Thank you for interest in guest posting here at HumbleMechanic.com
If you have spent any time on this site, you will find it very different from most other blogs. There are no Google Ads. There are no junk links. Everything you find here is top notch, original content. Please keep that in mind while reading the rest of this page.
I love making more connections and friends in the automotive industry. It helps build even more strength in the community, and can bring a fresh prospective. That is cool! So if you want to be part of the community, I would love to hear from you.
What Can I Write About?
I talk about cars, car repairs, tools, and the automotive industry. Any type of guest posting will need to be properly aligned in that market. Things like:
- Buying and selling cars
- DIY car maintenance
- Modifiing cars
- Mobile electronics
- Vehicle preparedness
- General hand and power tools
- Advanced automotive tools including diagnostic equipment
- Vehicle maintenance products
- Shop equipment
- Safety equipment
- Home garage accessories
- General car fan products. T-shirts, stickers, garage art
If you don’t fit exactly in any of these categories, that is okay. Contact me with what you have, and we can chat about it.
Posting Guidelines
Here is where we get into the fine print. I am going to be very upfront. I do not take many guest posts. Why is that? Most guest folks that contact me about guest posting simply don’t get it. They are trying to use this community as a link farm. If this is you, please do not waste your time. Everything that is done here is for the community. Me accepting a guest post is to bring value to the community. I am not here to help your site rank better on Google. The experts say to write guest posts. But what they don’t say is, you need to provide value to the community.
I take this blog and the folks that spend time here extremely serious. I care more about the folks that take time out of their day to connect with me, than I do about anything else. If you simply want to do a guest post because the SEO experts say to, again don’t waste your time.
If you are still with me, great! I know that I come off really harsh about guest posting. Just understand that it is about the community. If you can bring true value to the community I would love your prospective. If you email me saying:
Hi, I write for a company in your industry. I would like to provide you a guest post for your readers. Thank you
I know you don’t care 1 bit about this community. You are most likely a media company that an automotive company hired. There is really nothing wrong with that. But I can tell you have not spent 1 minute reading this blog, or connecting with us in any way. Heck you couldn’t even say “Hey Charles”.
Alright, if you have made it this far, you must be serious about connecting with the community. So please email me Charles(at)Humblemechanic(dot)com. Don’t worry, if we do any type of cross promotion, I will give you all the credit and links.
Hello.
I see your site https://humblemechanic.com/ don’t have education section.
I like to write an article there.
Topic could be about driving lessons and safe driving. I think that is the topic that is very important to young people who wants to have a car.
Please let me know if you are interested in publishing my article.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Kind Regards,
Christian Bach
Hello Charles, I don’t know if this is the right place to post a question or if twitter, or regular email would be more appropriate. But let me start with a question. I have a 2002 Passat, 2,8l v6, automatic with about 180K miles on the odometer. Lately, I have experienced hard starting, usually engine starting after 3 or more clicks of the ignition key. And when the engine starts, it will run at a low RPM and then only slowly rev up before settling down to an idle of about 900 rpm. I suspected a fuel pressure problem, and after checking my electrical connections to the wire feed to the pump (fuse, relay, voltage, resistance) I have concluded it is a failed pump. In addition, when placing current to the contacts of the pump (Power probe) I hear no sound to indicate that the pump is working. but before I crack open the ring retainer to remove the pump, is there anything else I should check to be sure it is the pump. I would hate to spend hundreds of dollars on a new pump, only to find the problem was not resolved. Thank you millions, Charles.
I have a laptop with alldata on it and it works. 500 for the laptop.
or 150 for just the alldata. or I can send you the information you need when you start working on the car.
2006 Jetta with 2.5l engine. 115,000 miles. Newer serpentine belt. Started making an intermittent chatter from engine compartment yesterday. Looked under the hood to locate the sound. Appears to come from the area around the alternator. Chatter is in sync with the serpentine belt. The pulley just below the alternator appears to have slight lateral movement that corresponds with the noise. I made appointment with dealer garage to have this repaired tomorrow, but I wanted to run this by you to see if this could be a DIY project. Are special tools needed for this type of repair? Thanks.
Hi Steve,
Some of those rollers are Diy. I think that one you are talking about requires you to take the engine mount out. Off the top of my head, I am not 100% sure. 🙂
Those rollers failing are semi-common to fail.
I have 1981 Buick regal with a v-8 engine that my grand father made
I read your insert in MSN’s 5 ways to avoid overpaying for repairs, and ways shops cheat you. I have worked in Chevrolet dealerships for 7 years now, and in my experience what was said about the tires not needing to be rotated at 5,000 miles was totally incorrect, and misleading to say the least. depending on some peoples driving and braking habits and wheather the veh. is front wheel drive or not, they should be rotated a minimum of every 7,500 miles to extend tire life and by 30,000 miles they should have also been balanced at least once and aligned at about 25-30k.
Drew, I was misquoted in that article.
The point of what I was saying was to follow the owners manual. I’ll put a post out about it later today. Thanks for the note.
I have no intention of misleading people.
HI…
I am truly impressed with your blog content, your posts are truly high-quality and you are keeping it fine. I would like to issue my post on your blog (as guest post) with my website link.. Please let me know if you are recognizing guest posts and I’m prepared to talk about my content, I promise you with unique, excellence and 100% plagiarism free content. I am looking forward to get your reply.
Thank You
If you have a car that sounds like it’s going to start but dos not. Is it the distributor but i’m only 12 so i am to sure see i am going to start my own mechanic shop when i move out i know most of the stuff i need to know but … i am stuck on a few things like this i thought it could be the ignition or the distributor ….. got any tips.
There are several things that can cause a car to sound like it will start, but not start.
You need to be sure you have spark, fuel, and compression.
It may be a distributor issue. You can take the distributor off and look for cracks or buildup.
You also want to be sure the car is getting fuel to the engine.
Thanks for the reply
sorry about the type o’s 🙁
Class is over see ya
Still waiting for a reply
Still waiting please respond.
Still waiting
I got a license hide kit from http://007Plate.com. I think its a great product, maybe you guys can write an article about it?
I will look into it, thanks
I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar with a broken hood release latch. It appears to broken on the release side under the hood. The hood wont release at all. Please help
I watched your video on the Rear Main Seal failure. I am being told by my VW dealer that the seal has failed but my 2018 Jetta only has 28K miles on it. It started to leak the day after they performed an oil change which could just be coincidence but it seems suspicious. Have you seen them fail prematurely on newer cars? Could the dealer be misleading me? It is a major repair like you point out in your video.
I have a 2010 Passat Wagon with the 2.0T. I replaced the rear main seal. Put in a new transmission last year and now I have ANOTHER issue. I am getting an Oil Pressure Turn OFF ENGINE warning after about 5mins of driving. I have a permanent P0299 code. So I’m thinking it’s the turbo needs to be replaced. Mechanic told me that because the Oil Pressure light comes on and blinks while accelerating, it’s the oil pump and i need a new engine at $5,000. Volkswagen told me it was the turbo sucking in too much oil and I would need to replace it at $3,000. I had to drive on the highway recently and the car was floating pretty above 60 mph. 70, 80 and even at one point 90, No lights, no nothing. But as soon as I go under 60, BEEP BEEP BEEP Oil Pressure light. I don’t want to buy a turbo and it doesn’t work or throw away my engine when I could just replace the oil pump (and I’ve seen some vids where it was done). Do you have any ideas or expertise in such a matter?
Impossible to say with out looking at the car. but odds are neither are correct. Typically if the oil light is on, and level is good, its debris from the balance shafts that cause it. Or you have a screen in the spool valve blocking oil. Either way, it’s not cheap, and could result in a very sad engine
Thank you for your response. I changed the spool valve (VVT solenoid) in that car 2 years ago, along with the cam shaft bracket (which had the screen broken and lodged in it). So I never gave it a second thought. However, I did not use OEM for either part to save money. SO, while I REALLY hated this job because some of the bolts were hard to remove, I am willing to go back in and (now that I have the money) install OEM parts and hope that works. Hopefully it’s that and not the balancing shaft. Please don’t let it be that!!!! There is some oil leaking from the turbo, and I still have that P0299 from time to time, but one thing at a time. Thanks for your insight.
Hey Charles!,
I love the content and you’ve given me a lot of helpful tips. I have a VW cc 2012 my first mod is a sigma 6 I loved the video on it! But I need some tips on tunes for my cc which is a gen 1or2 e888? I’ve checked integrated engineerings tune and unitronics but if I wanna do a future stage 2 Will their downpipes fit my car? I’m currently looking on websites to find the fitments but they don’t list them. But I found out some GTI’S have the same gen 1or2 tsi which are listed on the website for integrated but I wanted your insight on the matter! I dont wanna waste your time but I would appreciate it a lot. Have a blessed day.
Hi Charles. I’ve been following you since I bought 2013 Passat TDI a few years ago. Now I got myself a 2020 Passat SEL with 2.0 TSI engine (of course the only option we have unfortunately). I cannot find a lot more info about this engine at all. I looked at the side of the engine and saw DDS on it. Is it the DDSA or DDSB with Budack cycle like in Tiguan? Is it a DI only or PDI like the one sold in EU? Is the turbo setup twin scroll turbo or a normal turbo since I saw 2 separate ports at the exhaust manifold? I really like it so far. I feel like this engine is punchy and have enough power for me for daily driving experience. I miss DSG in a Passat tho. Thank you in advance!!!
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Thank you for the kind words! It’s great to hear that you found the blog helpful and informative. If you want more tips and strategies, especially regarding car oil changes, auto services, and coupons, check out oillearner.com. They have a wealth of resources that could be beneficial. Thanks for reading and engaging!
I want to write and publish an article in your website. Please share me the way to do it for my websites.
How to contact?
what is the price?
Guidelines?
Hi, just watched your utube video on audi fuel injector refit.
The tool that you used to fit white seal on can you please send the details from where you bought it from as I can’t find any in UK England.
Thank you.
I recently started up the car yesterday and had a host of new lights and warnings, such as EPC/Airbag/TPMS/ and a continuously beeping Parking Brake alarm. These all occurred at the same time, which is highly suspect. No drivability issues noted, car ran and drove normal.
I scanned the car with my Autel MX808 and found the following codes:
02511 – Passenger occupant detection system control module – No signal/communication
01578 – Airbag off – indicator lamp, front passenger side – faulty
-XXXX – Tire Pressure Monitoring Control Module – No Communication
Other issues:
— The parking brake warning light will not turn off on dashboard. This means the warning alarm whenever the car is driven above 4 MPH and lasts for about 10 minutes.
–The ambient temperature display next to the clock near the roof handle does not display.
I have pulled the parking brake switch and tested – seems OK. I tested the voltage from the connector that feeds the parking brake switch and only measured 2.4 volts. I also measured the voltage at the AC Pressure switch and only found 2.4 Volts feeding the switch. I know this particular switch has read 12 V in the recent past.
Battery voltage after sitting overnight was at 12.44 Volts.
Any insight would be helpful. Thanks!
Jason
Forgot the car! 2009 Beetle Convertible with 2.5L
Thanks
jason
So I have a 2015 GTI and recently I had a little incident where the axle backing plates rubbed a hole onto my trans. So I ordered a used 6-speed dsg trans with the same trans code on it, PUL. Now that everything is in, everything connected and filled with trans fluid, the car doesn’t move at all when put into R or D. I’m I missing something? Do I have to program the TCU? Do I have to do something unique to tell the TCU to connect with the new trans? Any clues/help would be appreciated!
Charles,
I have been looking up and down on the internet/youtube to find out any information on checking fuses specifically in regards to VW products to no avail… I was wondering if you could do a video discussing the fuse location, fuse size, fuse types etc…?
Thank you for all the help.
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Hi Charles!
I’ve been following you for quite some time and have finally decided to rebuild the VR6 in my Corrado after watching some of your White Wookie videos. I’ve seen you featured in quite a few VR6 teardowns and was wondering if you’ve ever used a torque plate while honing a block? I’m having a very difficult time finding someone with a torque plate for a VR6 and figured that if anyone knows about them, it would be you.
If you haven’t, it would be really cool to see a comparison between two engines that were built in the same way and machined at the same shop with the only difference being the usage of a torque plate during the honing process. Even some basic measurements of the bores with/without a plate to check distortion would be super cool.
Thanks!
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I recently had a rack & pinion replaced on my Cadillac Sedan DeVille, after the wrk was done now all of a sudden my there is a oil leak from my engine & oil pan when this wasn’t happening before! What do I do??
Hello There,
I hope you’re well and are having an enjoyable day.
My name is James, and I am a senior editor with a Business, Technology, Home, Lifestyle and more business. I have been browsing through your blog, And have read a number of articles with much interest.
I would love to be associated with your reputed publication as a guest blogger.
I believe that with my background and experience I can create engaging and thought-provoking content that’ll entice your visitors into wanting to read more and more!
Please let me know if you’d be interested in allowing me to contribute to your blog and I will put together a content brief of my proposed piece for you to review.
Looking forward to hearing from you,
Regards
James T.
Dear mr Charles, writing from Venezuela, saw a lot of your vids, like to hear your advice on the following problem.
I have a used 2005 v8 Tuoareg , it has the following fuel trouble:
1 when i take the car to to gas station to refuel it and open the fuel cap the engine starts to fail suddenly fuel system is poor i think, ending the refuel and couple of minutes later its ok to go, if you shut off the engine it is very dificult to start it up, you have to push the accelarator all the way down and crank it several times till it starts up.
2. Now i have a new issue, when ridding in a highway if you have a right hand long curve suddenly the accelerator does not work and it loses power till the car is straight then the power goes on again and starts accelerating normally.
I know that it could be fuel pump damage, but which of the two pumps .?
Maybe i could change the fuel filter?
Could it be a wire issue?
And i am thinking that its more than one problem, jejejeje
Normally i try to solve my own mecanical problems when i am in the right path and have some mecanical skills, what could be your advice on this trouble, regards from the third world bro!
Enviado desde mi iPad
Carlos machado
I’m having issues with my 2013 Passat tdi it keeps throwing code p204. I’ve taken it the dealership multiples and they just keep telling me there’s nothing wrong with it then a couple days later it pops back up again. What’s my best option? Where should I start?
I have a 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5L with 134,000 Miles. I have Almost everything stock in my car except few thing. I have did some mods a little by little cause it costs a lot of money. I am a international student here so it’s tough. So i have 6 speed automatic transmission on the car factory one. I am thinking that is it possible to do a DSG Tranny swap only. I have researched on the internet people says it’s possible with customer ecu from Ecumaster or standalone. Have you ever tried any of the project or something. I am very interested to do that.
Please help me with these information.
I have a 2012 EOS-
PCS Tuned
Cold Air Intake
Down Pipe
Question- What are you thoughts on a CAT BACK Exhaust?
After Market Turbo Upgrade?
Thank you,
Dan
it would be really cool to see a comparison between two engines that were built in the same way and machined. waiting
I am very interested about this post.
I am manager in mcs it services
we analysed your website and found good dr rating and high value content on it.AS we found you are accepting guest blogging on your website our company has reasonable orders with high quality content related to your site niche. here are some queries about guest posting as following :*cost of guest posting per article
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we will appreciate your quick response
Great article, some thought provoking ideas and points.
Hello,
My name is Akins Samson from Nigeria. I have seen some of your videos on youtube and I am highly impressed with the great work which you are doing.
Please, I have 2007 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T FSI engine and I have been facing some issues with it for more than a year from now. The issue started when I changed the knock sensor and everything was fine throughout that day. The next day on highway the EPC light came up on the dash and engine power was reduced. I scanned the car and found error P0222, P310B and another one which says something about the front catalytic converter. I took it to my mechanic and he said I need to change the throttle body which I did but that didn’t fix the issue.
I later saw one of your videos where you said something about changing the harness cable and I did just that but that didn’t fix the issue as well. I have traced both the throttle body and pedal wires back to ECM with multimeter and they were all fine because they all showed zero resistance.
At times, I do get some other codes like P0321 and other codes which are related to both throttle pedal and throttle body.
Around August last year, I took it to a mechanic who joined one brown wire from the engine/water switch (which is under the brake vacuum pump) with another small brown wire in the same trunk and that fried my ECU. I replaced the ECU and also remove the jumper wire used by that mechanic but things has not been the same since then because I still have the same issue with some other new codes. The other codes are P2127, P0652 and 1314 in electronic parking brake.
Although P0652, P2127 P0222 and 1314 are intermittent and I always get P0222 whenever I try to move fast and I won’t be able to clear it until I remove throttle body cable and plug it back or have the car parked for a long period.
I also noticed that while driving, the electronic parking brake error will Just show up on the dash and the EPC light will just follow.
Would greatly appreciate any help from you on about this ugly which I have been facing for more than a year now.
Thanks in anticipation.
I have a “whiny” Q5… 2011 Q5 2.0T. Within last 13k miles have replaced timing chain, guides, tensioner, and turbo in periodic maintenance. Recently a light whine has shown up – definitely tracks engine RPM. Sounds a little like a Dremel tool winding up, maybe with a higher pitch. Stethoscope makes me lean toward belt drive, so full belt kit with pulleys and tensioner this weekend. Sound is still there. Listened – turned off A/C and I noticed just a slight sound level change but still there. So, if it IS in the belt driven stuff I’m down to the alternator and the power steering pump (mine is still hydraulic). Before I go diving into more expensive parts trying to see if anyone has experienced this and what it was?
OK, follow up. Replaced all tensioners, belt, now the alternator pulley with no effect. Decided to removed the belt and start the engine – STILL THERE. IT’S IN THE ENGINE. I am starting to wonder if one of the timing chain guides might have moved or fractured and is rubbing the chain edge. Seems like I caught a sound like I am hearing on one of your YT videos. I thought a bit about the lower timing chain now, because it is still original.
I can understand why alot of people ditch these 2.0T cars. This is starting to turn into a Money Pit! Of the Top 5 problems these engines have, I have had all except the low oil pressure. Good Grief!
I am going nuts trying the find the location for the Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor on my VW Passat 2009 Komfort.
According to BlueDriver I am getting the following code: P0016 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A
I have found the replacement piece: Part Number: 06H906433 , yet I have not found where is located in the car and my search on Google has not provided me any results either.
If you can help would be fantastic.
Thank you
Hi
Have an 2007 VW Jetta 2.0 Turbo FSI and a recent problem has occured after a standard oil change. The motor starts fine and idles fine, but when driving and you put your foot down to accelerate, the car regularly (but not always) feels as though its slipping/shuddering before it takes off. If you gently accelerate it doesnt seem to do it. Codes throwing are the cylinder 4 misfire code and P0441 code. Ive recently replaced the sparkplugs as well. Vehicle has done 190,000km. Any guidance on what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, David
Morning Charles
Avid follower of your YT channel, probably watched all the posted content to date, I am truly grateful for people such as yourself who provide educational content to further your followers expertise in working and modifying our vehicles. I am currently working on a AAA 12V VR6 swap into a Mk2 GTI and I need some machine shop work on both the block and the head of the VR. Would you be so kind as to recommend a machine shop / shops in the Raleigh NC area that you would use or did use for your VR projects? I would appreciate your recommendation, and looking forward to continued content from your YT channel.
Thanks Charles
Hi Charles
I just wanted to say that I absolutely love the videos you make. I am a VW enthusiast-I have a mk7 Golf Sportwagen and a Mk 7 Jetta. Thank you very much for creating the videos, the site, and everything. I really appreciate it.
THANK YOU!
Hey Charles!
So I just found your blog, and should have posted my question to you on here, and not youtube. But I have elderly neighbors, who have a 2011 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, they have generously paid me to work on it. I have done; oil change, brakes, brake flush, (still feels a little soft) glow plugs, and the sensor for the glow plugs. And a few other odds and ends jobs. They are in need of a timing belt, and DPF done ASAP! I have done the timing belt on my 04′ 1.8T Passat Auto, among, because they have a diesel im not 100% confident to help them out with theirs, but they were quoted over $2300 to do it at the dealership. The lady who owns the car, just had spinal fusion surgery, and her husband (who still works as a GC) is a cancer survivor, Viet Nam vet, and may have pancreatic cancer, (they are still testing it to see.) I know I am asking a lot, here but is there anyway you would be willing to come out to Columbia TN, to help me perform this job, in my garage??? If not what all would it take to do a diesel timing belt, and DPF?? I should have all of the tools needed, I would just hate to say yest to this job, but end up breaking their car, I was really wanting to do something nice for them. Thoughts???
-Dan O’Shaughnessy
Update: My neighbor was just gifted a car in a will, so she has sold the TDI, and all its problems along with it to a young eager lad who wrecked his Impreza.
Hi Charles,
I’m looking for some advice on my 2016 VW Passat 1.8L TSI with 135,000 miles on it. I just purchased this used car from a private individual and now finding that it uses about 1 quart of oil every 160 miles. Shame on me for not doing my research on this car. The car doesn’t smoke, the engine is super clean and doesn’t make any noise and seams to run great. The previous owner said he did some maintenance and just replaced the water pump, PVC valve and intake gasket. He knew this car had problems and didn’t tell me, and now I am stuck fixing it because I could never sell it to anyone with this issue. I have watched many of your videos and want to try to fix this car myself. I’m not a certified mechanic but no stranger to wrenching and feel that I’m capable. How would you go about diagnosing this issue, and with the amount of miles on this engine what should be replaced from your experience? Any info would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your time.
Thanks
Eric
So thankful for the vacuum pump and EVAP pruge valve videos. Now I had a camshaft position sensor that I found a 10 minute process to replace on a 2.5L MK6 Jetta. That code went away but now I have C0300 Rear Propshaft Speed Sensor and P0321 Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit. Is it related and will it clear up after driving a bit?
Dear Mr. Charles,
I have a 2016 VW Jetta 1.8L with 170K miles and burning oil excessively. I have replaced the pcv valve and notice a leak coming from the air side of the turbo. Can you give me any advice?
Hello,
Good day!
I’d like to inquire about your guest posting opportunities.
I’d definitely love to submit one for publishing on your site. After reading your guidelines and requirements on “Write For Us” page I would like to write an article from one of the following topic:
Note: I am a writer myself and you can also suggest me any topic you like
1) Tips for choosing the best scrap car removal services.
2) 5 best ways to sell your scrap car.
3) What are the valuable parts to sell of a scrap car.
I am looking forward to hearing back from you.
Thanks for your time.
Hi Charles,
I was wondering if you can do another video on vcds interface specifically on output test. I’ve been trying to diagnose my mk5 gti crank no start for about 2 months now and I’ve had no luck. I’m at a point to where I might have an answer but I need to output test the fuel pump to be sure. My issue is that the hpfp doesn’t seem to get any fuel, when cranking the fuel pressure is around 1.2 bars instead of 3+ bars of fuel pressure. I believe my problem is something with the low pressure fuel system not connecting with the high pressure fuel system. My gti does have a built motor and is running a gtx2867r turbo with rs4 injectors, so it is possible something went bad but I can’t pin point what. Since I can’t turn the car on I can’t use the basic setting feature on vcds. I really need to get the car running asap since the timing chains are coming due on my Mk4 r32 and I’d rather park it until I can get an appointment. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Charles, I hope that you are doing well.
I would love to see the guide on Car Shaking when we Drive. Any Tips?
How much you charge for guest posting
hi charles hope u good brother, its ash from South Africa capetown – Big fan and would like to know if you would do a feature on changing a water pump, camshaft pulley and overall service on a 2016 1.2 tsi polo – engine code CJZ and if there are any common problems on these vehicles except what i mentioned. My car is out of warrantee currently and dont want to use the repair shops around here.
regards Ash
Really i like the way of your blog post content, it’s a good information..
Hi,
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Hello everyone I had a question I have a 1998 Jetta glx vr6 I keep having this issue when it rains I’m getting water behind the glove box I have no idea why any insight ?
This is Elyas Rasoli from Cash-Cars. Sydney, and I’m dropping you a line to see if you’re accepting new guest bloggers. I recently wrote about [The 6 Modifications That Can Make a Big Impact on the Resale Value of a Car] and thought this article would be a good fit for your audience well.
The post will be 100% original, written just for your blog, and will not be posted elsewhere. I would appreciate an author bio with a live link back to my site. If you’re interested in this cooperation, please get back to me.
Let me know if you are not interested so I can post it elsewhere!
Thanks
This is Elyas Rasoli from Cash-Cars. Sydney, and I’m dropping you a line to see if you’re accepting new guest bloggers. I recently wrote about [The 6 Modifications That Can Make a Big Impact on the Resale Value of a Car] and thought this article would be a good fit for your audience well.
The post will be 100% original, written just for your blog, and will not be posted elsewhere. I would appreciate an author bio with a live link back to my site. If you’re interested in this cooperation, please get back to me.
Let me know if you are not interested so I can post it elsewhere!
Thanks
Hi Charles & our Community. I’ve got an urgent request. My wife’s 2010 GTI with less than 35k miles has developed an unresponsive throttle, especially after braking to a rolling stop, then finding zero response when pressing the accelerator pedal for 1-3 seconds. This can be in situations where there is oncoming traffic in a left turn or other critical exposure situations. Otherwise, the car accelerates normally after this “lag”. This lag doesn’t occur during most driving situations. The car has been very well maintained mostly by me over the 13+ years. This is one thing I hate about “drive by wire” throttles. Can’t even use brakes to keep them dry when going thru our Florida rain floods. I have had the fully subscribed VCDS UDS software since 2011 and I have run all tests applying to throttle adaptation, fuel pressures, or a central electric or ECM faults, all of which check-out. The timing chain offset is only -1.66 degrees, so stretch is minimal. Yes, we need to replace the “H” tensioner, but trying to get to 45k before we get to that major expense. I have even replaced the brake light switch below the master cylinder and used a pigtail light to see if the brake lights were turning off immediately when lifting off the brake and pressing the accel. pedal. I was thinking it might be a slow return of the master cylinder plunger due to a faulty vacuum booster, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I would love to completely bypass the “drive by wire” feature using the VCDS long code so the car could be driven like the old throttle cable days. I have been working on mostly German cars for 50 years!
Are there any specific tests (Group #’s) I could run in the VCDS to determine a likely cause? Car has had oil changes once a year, has had the BFI oil catch can since 2012, has the Neuspeed intake replaceing the “noise pipe”, has the Neuspeed compressor outlet pipe, and has the newest version of the compressor by-pass valve. The CRC valve cleaner has been used 3 times. The throttle plate is very clean. It has not been “chipped” by any software, yet. i’m at a loss with this dangerous “lag”, but maybe you guys have seen this before and could have an answer.I want to avoid our local dealer who would love to “experiment” on replacing the expensive ECM or Central Electric module, etc. and still not cure the issue. I have joined as a Crew Member and look forward to accessing all the good material you have on your site. Thank you in advance for a good solution to this issue. Garry
Hi
I’ve been watching you and DAP for a long time. Btw… I loved that Jetta series!! I’m looking to swap an engine from a 2013 VW CC VR6. I found a 2013 VR from a Passat and they look the same, but one is CNNA and the other one is CBVD. Are they compatible? I’ll awesome need some upgrades from you store.
Hi All,
I was under my MK6 gti today and was looking at oil coming from the timing cover and covering my oil pan. This I was not surprised to see. I was however wondering what the two empty bolt holes above and a bit to the right of the drain plug, on the block were used for? I tried to post a picture but was not able to get the picture to post. If anyone knows please share.
Thanks
Hi Charles, I have a 2015 golf s 1.8t and it has a rattle coming either from the turbo or the catalytic converter, also heavy smoke coming from tailpipe and a bit from engine bay near the turbo. I put my hand on the wastegate linkage and had some movement and rattle, any help would be great. Thanks.
Hi
I’m from Undent Inc., specializing in paintless dent repair in Martin and St. Lucie Counties, FL. We’d love the opportunity to write a guest post for your website. Our content focuses on car dent removal and related services.
Let us know if you’re interested, and we can discuss details.
I’d like to activate the door puddle lights for my Scirocco 1.4TSI 2012 model. Can you please give a tutorial of how it’s done using the VCDS? There is a need to change the numbers to allow the lights to be activated but I’m not sure.
I also changed the head unit to an android player and now I get the following error codes :
1. 01305 Databus Infortainment : No signal/Communication
2. 01044 Control Module Incorrectly Coded
3. 03272 External Audio Source Connection : No signal/Communication
What can be done to code this correctly so the gateway module can communicate with the new audio head unit?
Please join us—
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If you’re seeking specific services like car dent removal or car paint repair, a specialized car paint shop near me can address these needs effectively. In addition to routine maintenance, car servicing in Pune and surrounding areas offers services such as brake repair, engine service, and battery replacement. For those requiring immediate assistance, options like 24/7 roadside assistance and auto road service are available. Make sure to check the car ac repair cost, car denting and painting cost, and other service charges to ensure you receive the best value for your money.
Thankyou
Hi, This is Hitesh, I was browsing your website, which I found to be quite impressive.
I would like to contribute a guest post to your site for GearShiftSol.com.
Could you please contact me so we can discuss the details?
Thanks
Hi, This is Hitesh, I was browsing your website, which I found to be quite impressive.
I would like to contribute a guest post to your site.
Could you please contact me so we can discuss the details?
Thanks
Hi Charles, I have a 2015 golf s 1.8t and it has a rattle coming either from the turbo or the catalytic converter, also heavy smoke coming from tailpipe and a bit from engine bay near the turbo. I put my hand on the wastegate linkage and had some movement and rattle, any help would be great. Thanks.
Please join us—
Looking for car servicing in Pune!!! a2z Car Care the best car service center near you that offers a range of services including car denting and painting, car ac repair, and emergency car service. Whether you need a car mechanic near me available 24 hours, or a doorstep car service for convenience, finding a reputable car repair shop is crucial. Services such as car rubbing and polishing, car dent repair, and car ac gas refill are commonly offered, ensuring your vehicle stays in top condition. Look for options like multi-brand car service centers and online car repair services to get the best care for your car.
If you’re seeking specific services like car dent removal or car paint repair, a specialized car paint shop near me can address these needs effectively. In addition to routine maintenance, car servicing in Pune and surrounding areas offers services such as brake repair, engine service, and battery replacement. For those requiring immediate assistance, options like 24/7 roadside assistance and auto road service are available. Make sure to check the car ac repair cost, car denting and painting cost, and other service charges to ensure you receive the best value for your money.
Thankyou
Hi All,
I was under my MK6 gti today and was looking at oil coming from the timing cover and covering my oil pan. This I was not surprised to see. I was however wondering what the two empty bolt holes above and a bit to the right of the drain plug, on the block were used for? I tried to post a picture but was not able to get the picture to post. If anyone knows please share.
Thanks
Hey Charles! I have been a fan for a while. I have an Audi B8 A4 Avant (unfortunately) an ’09. As the local dealer sealed off half of an oil port running between the upper oil pan and the block with excess sealant while doing the piston & ring replacement for oil consumption , I am experiencing the joy of rebuilding my CAEB. I have noticed & confirmed with a very experienced mechanic friend, the seal on the intake side balance shaft (under the W/P drive sprocket) is oriented backwards. It has a lip that faces away from the pressurized side. My friend is actually the one who noticed this is the way all of these he has seen on the EA888 are oriented & that they all seem to seep a bit. Is there a reason the lip is faced the opposite of virtually every other seal? I’m considering installing it in the regular orientation, but don’t want to find out that it could cause a problem.
Car accidents are sudden events that often result in vehicle damage, injuries, and sometimes fatalities. They are commonly caused by factors like speeding, distracted driving, or poor weather conditions. Accidents can lead to significant emotional and financial strain, affecting individuals and communities. Practicing safe driving and adhering to traffic rules can help reduce these incidents.
Hey Charles,
I have a 2014 Audi A5 2.oT CPM.
I’ve had this vehicle for about 2 years.
I’ve fought the oil consumption and have had success in reducing it, now am fighting misfires, however, I have now found 2 broken sparks plug, in cylinder 1, after scoping it found the piston head looking like the surface of the moon. I have yet to do a compression test, and saw the video on the GTI with catastrophic piston damaged. Will pull the oil pan to check for debris… My question is do I put a salvage engine with half the milage “78K” or rebuild mine as the block will surely need machining.
This is my daily driver, salvaged motor about $4K, even swap, probably simular issues,eventually, Vs rebuild budget, tunable engine.
I have watched a number of your videos online and I appreciate your detailed, methodical and clear approach to VW maintenance. I hope that this forum is an acceptable avenue to ask for your insight and advice regarding the CCTA balance shaft system.
I am normally a Mk3/Mk4 TDI person. My son, however, has a well-running 2011 GTI (CCTA) with 125K miles. It has only recently come to our attention that the TSI engine family apparently suffers from a few “weak” areas – in particular the timing chain and balance shaft systems, about which we have been attempting to rapidly educate ourselves. Yeah….we’re a little late to the party.
My son took the car to the local dealer and paid for a detailed evaluation. The dealer stated that the engine “failed” timing system check and that the cam cradle had a leak. I performed my own verification checks when the car returned. Indeed, it has the old style timing chain tensioner, VCDS 093-3 Phase Position indicates -5.03 degrees and the cam cradle is weeping. So – it appears that camshaft and timing chain system service is in order.
I recently watched your joint video with “Deutsche Auto Parts” regarding timing chain replacement on a 2010 Tiguan (owned by Jalopnik senior editor) with similar mileage to ours. I know that it is a different vehicle, but it seems the base engine is from the same family with (presumably) similar issues as my son’s GTI (in the info section, you did point to CCTA links and parts). I noticed that you did not proactively change the balance shafts, despite the known issues with the filter screens. I wondered why.
Given all that I have read concerning balance shafts and oil screen blockages, we are seriously considering proactively replacing them at the same time as the timing chain hardware. There are no indications of trouble with the balance shafts – but then it seems that there is little, if any, warning of failure. I have been reviewing countless videos and pages regarding this work and noticed what seems to be a glaring omission in nearly all of them – I have found only a couple of references of any kind to the bearings at the far end of the balance shafts (pressed into the block?). From what little I have seen, they appear to be plain bearings. Even the local VW dealer parts department could not confirm. They took their best shot and gave me part numbers for needle bearings (with three different color codes) on the closest engine reference they could find to ours – a 2014 CNSA/CNSB engine. I purchased the electronic VW service manuals (erWin) and found that they are missing information about this bearing as well. No bearing is apparent to me in the exploded diagram (unless I missed it). One would almost assume that there is no bearing there at all! I know that the far end of the shaft has to spin in something – and I doubt that it spins directly in the block (surely not!).
So, assuming that there are bearings at the far end, my questions are these:
– what is this bearing (part number/description)?
– how does one inspect these bearings and what should the dimensions (clearances) be?
– how does one replace these bearings (if necessary)?
– where does one buy these bearings (they do not seem to come with the balance shafts)?
– why does no one talk about these bearings? It appears to be a normal plain bearing with no filter screens.
– what are the consequences of removing the filter screens on the balance shafts prior to installation? The bearings at the far end of the shaft do not appear to have filter screens and yet there do not seem to be any issues with scoring or oil starvation (at least none that anyone talks about).
Interestingly, I have found some Russian YouTube videos talking specifically about this bearing (in an Audi Q5) and even looking at it up close with a nifty bore-scope. The engine looked like the same CCTA engine family but, unfortunately, the video did not involve actually changing it out. I saw another similar video (again, Russian) where the narrator made an extraction/installation tool for this bearing on a lathe – but he had the engine out of the car. I don’t believe that it should be necessary to remove the engine from the car, as there do not seem to be any shoulders in the bearing bore that would block extraction of the bearing out the front (with the right tool). I would have to pull it out from the front – possibly even making a tool to do so.
Whatever we do, I want to give the engine the best chance of running another 100k miles without needing to go back and change something that should have been replaced while everything was disassembled the first time. Is that realistic? What are the odds of the original balance shafts running another 100k miles? From what I have been seeing, I would say that it is unlikely. It almost sounds like this timing chain/balance shaft design needs to be viewed as a timing belt in terms of regular, scheduled replacement. Sigh.
So here we are. The dealer cost estimates for the basic timing chain work were pretty steep and I don’t know about the quality of their work. So – we will be doing work this ourselves. We have not yet started the work and my son has stopped driving the car out of an abundance of caution. I am trying to answer the last few questions in order to start moving forward.
We would also welcome GTI Mk6 parts supplier recommendations for this job – including being able to talk to someone knowledgeable on the phone. Our preference is for genuine parts where possible.
Apologies for the wordy description and all of the moving parts. I especially apologize if this info is already covered elsewhere on this site – if so, just point me in the right direction, please.
Thank you.
Hello,
I am currently trying to save a decently rare combo in a flood salvage manual 2009 mk2 Audi TT with the 3.2 vr6. Upon receiving the vehicle I went ahead and started diagnosing issues (Even though it was to not be started or even have the key in the ignition, the delivery truck driver drove it off the truck). I took this as a pretty decent sign, the water had gotten above the thigh cushion seat bolsters and must have been there for a while. Since I had known the car was running, I went ahead and did a quick autoscan with diagnostic level set to 2, then promptly turned the car off and closed the doors and pulled the battery. I started stripping the interior and realized that it might be best to just go ahead and find a wrecked tt to try and do a full interior swap. I found a 2008 TT in the same configuration and plan on using the different modules (air bag, hvac, radio, bluetooth control, etc) as well as basically swapping the entire entire and possibly the exhaust. Now I am in a situation where I realize while having the car running for that little bit I probably should have saved all coding and adaptations before pulling the seats, air bag modules, and other electronics out of the car. I am wondering if it is still possible to start the car so I can pull the adaptations and coding for doing module swaps, and if not should I go ahead an do all the swaps first or will that wreck the adaptations and coding when the canbus system detects the new-used modules. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am just an enthusiast who absolutely loves the sound of the vr6 and I don’t want to see one die if it can be saved.
Thank you,
Tyler Miller